mitigated disasters


Saturday, expecting stormy weather, we’d planned to go for a mellow tour in the trees, but with Max needing to test drive the rebuilt engine on his Arctic Cat we decided Friday night that the best play was to involve our snowmachines and try to find some  tree skiing terrain in Johnson Pass.  Saturday unexpectedly greeted us with sunshine but we stuck to our plan.

Previously I’d never made it very deep into Johnson Pass, as after or 6 miles riding the narrow bumpy trail we would usually give up, but Saturday we pushed on back to Bench Lake and glimpsed loads of fantastic terrain I’d never seen before.  This resulted in lots of excitement and cruising around at speed, but we managed to keep our head and get in a quick ski lap before dark.  Of coarse an unexpected sunny day can never work out flawlessly so Sue decided to get involved with a porcupine and received  a mouth full of quills.  Video of some sled action and some quill pulling bellow.  Elsewhere, check out HatchYourTrax video snow reports, or the Michigan Ski Blog finding some epic (for Michigan standards) Crystal Mountain conditions.  And although this isn’t skiing related, anything titled The Danger of Taking a Dog into the Backcountry was going to get linked from this post, especially when it concerns small dogs getting swooped up by birds.

Jeff (author of the octopus ink article) is currently living down in Ketchikan and spent Memorial Day halibut fishing.  Apparently he forgot a gaff and decided to land this thing with the help of a 15mm wrench.  I can imagine Brad yelling “quit horsing it Jeffe” throughout the entire clip.  Enjoy the video

UPDATE: Anyone looking for some skiing content should check out Seb Montaz’s trailer video of 4 routes on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. (Hat tip to Chamonix Insider)  And Joe Stock has posted lots of local goodies.


After 5 years of no use the old kayak finally was resurrected on a evening float down the little willow. This was the first trip of the year for all of us.  As with any float trip in Alaska beer and guns were involved to help numb the senses and pass time on the slow parts of the water.   Anthony was not to be messed with on the river as you can see below.
Hopefully the next time we float the river we will be catching the mighty King Salmon! Stay tuned for more willow updates.You can see the rest of the pictures here.

This week has been a waste.  I’ve been stuck working everyday as an upcoming trip to Bolivia has kept me extremely busy, which means nothing of interest to post around these parts.  Wilson and Usau haven’t returned from Valdez either, so I’ve got nothing to post on their antics either.  So you’ll have to make do with this little piece of Seattle Creek comedy that’s been posted elsewhere.  The fun begins a bit after the 2 minute mark.

Jimmy, Josh and I set out for Valdez with a pair of snow machines Thursday.  It was dumping snow in Anchorage when we left, and with the highway being unploughed most of the way it was rather slow going.  Then just as we were pulling in to Kenny Lake, our destination for the night, a wheel fell off the snow machine trailer.  At the time my initial impression was that it was lucky timing, we were within 100 yards of our destination and had the wheel sheared off at any other time on the drive dealing with it would have been extremely uncomfortable.  It was easy to imagine the trailer, sleds or car careening off the road had it happened elsewhere.  As it was we simply pushed the trailer off the road, snow machined to the cabin, and began drinking whiskey with the plan of fixing the wheel in the morning and pushing on for Valdez.

The next morning after having better assessed the scene, we realized the loose wheel had machined the rim apart along the drive, but that we were relatively lucky as we’d only need new bolts in order to get mobile.  Jimmy and I went to the local “country store” in search of some bolts which unfortunately was late opening and then didn’t have the exact parts we were looking for.  We returned with some new bolts and made an effort to put the trailer back together before realizing it was futile and that we were best off pushing on to Valdez without the trailer, doing some ski touring, and returning with the proper parts.

The trip played out like a reintroduction to all the Valdez stereotypes.  Friday was a breif sample of the longer length of runs that are possible when it’s sunny.  Saturday we got lost above giant cliffs after being  tricked by a sucker hole, and recovered to ski a fun chute before finding excellent long powder runs on some alder slopes.  Sunday we were forced to make do with high winds, blowing snow, and zero visibility, which kept us from skiing, but because we’d retrieved the trailer Saturday we were able to pass the day with my snow machine and Josh’s kite.  Graham was granted access too an old cabin short hike from the road (pictured both above and at this link) so each night we hung out around the stove, stuffed ourselves on moose or sausage, and drunk a bunch of whiskey.  A fantastic fun weekend in Valdez, I can’t wait to go back.

(via Homeboy’s Ski Blog)

All day I’ve been feeling aggrieved that I’m in the office dealing with endless video codec or rendering issues while outside my window it is a calm, sunny day with fresh snow.  Then I came across the picture posted above, which is from a frightening large avalanche from Tamokdalen, Norway, and suddenly I felt much safer sitting here in the office.  There has been all sorts of avalanche related reading today as well.  My morning started out with the insane tale of a Swiss skier who survived after being buried for 17 hours in an avalanche, and a Washington area avalanche scare involving a whippet self-arrest above some cliffs.  Not the most positive day of mind-skiing, but sometimes horror stories are what’s needed when I’m marooned from the slopes in my dingy downtown office.   Anyway, there is a blizzard warning forecast for tonight and tomorrow, I’m welcoming all the snow, but a little afraid the Chugach is going to look like a war zone when it’s all done. And finally on a side note Caroline has come through with my new picture definition of the Wasatch scene.  I think that pretty much captures everything.

I’ve been stuck working all week which has been particularly painful as I’ve mostly looked out the window at the new snow and now today’s sunshine and Valdez making the paper with all it’s snow.  Because I haven’t done shit all week all I’ve got is the a picture Max took at the cabin last weekend, and a couple of good pieces from the ski safety blog of all places.  First an article on drunk skiing containing this awesome gem, “Research from Confused.com shows that 24% of skiers admitted to drinking more than four drinks before skiing down the side of a mountain; this has led to one in four being affected by drunken skiers,” which winds up making the usual Tin Can program of one beer per lap look pretty sober.  And finally, this story on a lift rollback in Wisconsin, something my dad always warned me about (as in remember to jump off it you start going backwards, not be suspicious of chairlifts in Wisconsin) but is really just an excuse to once again post my favorite video.

So far, the latest estimates say this current storm has dropped over 70 inches of snow on us.  I went skiing near Summit Lake today with the UAA crowd.  The drive there was treacherous with the car bottoming out in the snow along the highway, but Graham did well too keep Jeff’s Jetta out of the inlet and we made it.  When we arrived we found another car and a freshly cut skin track through light waist deep snow.

I was naively dreaming of face shots, but it wasn’t long before a couple huge whumph noises of collapsing snow banished those thoughts.  We caught up to the two guys from the other car  (we didn’t know them) who’d set the skin trail, and by that point they had decided to turn around after hearing a couple large collapses.  With a flat approach, and thick trees to anchor the snow we pushed a ways higher.  But near the top a numerous additional of massive whumph noises while on flat slopes, and the sounds of distant rumbles deterred us from skiing anything interesting and retreating back down our skin track in fear.  Along the way the clouds parted and we were able to get a glimpse of the valley, and notice that every aspect was riddled with large natural slides.  We played around down low in the alders for a bit, but it was too deep to make turns on anything gentle enough to be safe.  Still great fun, and another pleasant day in the hills.  Anyway, here is a little of Hunter from yesterday on Tin Can.

As regular readers will know, I’ve let most of the past couple weeks pass without comment around these parts as I’ve been occupied by Wilson’s and Mania’s most recent visit.  This is now Mania’s second and Wilson’s fifth spring visiting Alaska hoping to ski, and I’d dare to say they got better skiing on this trip then in any of their previous visits.  Where as the weather made last year’s trip seemed like some nightmarish restaurant where we were stuck waiting for a meal that never came, this trip was like bingeing at an incredible buffet.  Each day taking a trip in Wilson’s rental car to fill our plates with runs in Turnagain, Valdez, Girdwood and Hatcher Pass, barely leaving enough time to digest between courses.

That’s not to say we didn’t have our share of the usual issues.  I crashed my snowmachine into a tree in Hope, Mania forgot non-critical pieces of his equipment 60 percent of the time and Tim got hit with a 300 dollar speeding ticket in Eureka.  We kicked of avalanches in Hope, cut slabs on Tin Can, and got clouded out in Valdez. Except this time, despite the usual helping of adversity, we went out into the field for all but 4 days, and always came home with proud lines under each arm.

Our most plentiful take came on a wednsday afternoon in Valdez, strangely in the middle of a cycle of excellent skiing in Turnagain Pass.  After a couple of decent days we stepped up to a line on the north side of Eddie’s Wilson and I had eyed a year earlier on his visit, and I’d been hoping to ski ever since.  We got a bit of a late start as Seany B, who’d long wanted to ski the line as well, was applying for a job and couldn’t leave till noon.  Despite the late start, we didn’t see a soul on the voyage, the sun was out, the snow was velvet, all four of us skied it in a single pitch, and we avoided all the ravines out the way out.  That night we celebrated excessively and planned on sleeping in, but the next morning Wilson and Mania woke me up, asking if I thought they should go to Valdez.  Our good friend Karitas had called while I was sleeping, and offered them the chance to go Heli Skiing with him at H20.  Wilson mulled over the possibilities on the toilet before deciding to go for it, Mania was enthusiastic and I reluctantly went along thinking I would be needed as some kind of chaperone or could go for a solo ski tour in Valdez while the two of them were flying.  Wilson had already been ticketed so we didn’t make it wasn’t until 1:30 that we met Karitas and the helicopter in Valdez.  I thought I’d be dropping Mania and Wilson off before looking for a place to skin, but Karitas quickly made it clear that I was needed, they had a private helicopter and only himself, Wilson and Mania were going, when there was room for 5.  I took my skins out of my bag, and put a harness on.  We were in the air by 3, and by 3:30 Karitas was delivering the goods (pictured above and bellow).

We started off on Wally’s World for our first run (a second descent),  then moved on to Upper 49ers (top video) looking to refresh our palates on some lighter fare, before trying Once Ridden Twice Shy.  From there we had to wait a bit, we passed the time by playing jokes on Dean, calling on the radio to ask if we could borrow the helicopter for some late evening laps on Crudbusters.  Once we got picked up we moved on to a mellower line on Callahan’s before getting a first descent on what would become known as Island Time.  Everything went smooth, and without problems, until our final run, when Mania managed to get his pants stuck on the basket of the helicopter and get hung upside down.  Luckily he lived and the helicopter flew away safely.  We were back at the car around 9, everyone sporting massive smiles and content from an all time epic day.

Since then we’ve been all over the map.  We spent a weekend skiing from Seany B’s cabin in Hope, skied a couple of days in Turnagain, went sledding, and hit up some great north facing lines in Hatcher Pass.  The skiing has been good, Mania went back tired, and Wilson is claiming he’ll be moving here for next winter.  We shall see, we shall see, but first I’ve got to finish off this winter before I worry about the next one.

If you were expecting the much belated Valdez update you’ll have to wait a day or two longer; our conditions have slid into the unsafe territory and provided me with stories, video and pictures of a more fleeting value, basically I have a couple of slides to discuss.  Kyle kicked off a small slide in Hope Friday evening.  After Jason had skied a chute, which Wilson later reported they’d been skeptical off.  Kyle set off, skiing to the right of the chute and as he ventured away from the high point near the chute the whole slide broke off, about 6 inches too 1.5 feet deep.  Kyle retreated to the safety of the ridge and finished his run in the safety of the chute.  Today, with the sun poking through the large holes between the clouds, Jason, Wilson and I set off for the pass with a couple of things in mind.  The site of large, fresh, natural slides on a lot of northern aspects had us looking for cover, and adopting our plans to a more mellow day.  On top of Tin Can, with the winds howling out of the east, we decided to ski cut some of the loaded chutes near the top.  Our first attempt proved successful, Wilson managed to get a chute near the top of the skin track to break about 2 feet deep (pictured above) and run to the valley floor.  Two slides in the last couple days and massive signs of instability have clouded the plans for the next couple days, everything is currently on hold.  As usual the better version of Kyle’s Hope video bellow is here, enjoy.

Update: Also, good friend of the site and member of the Hope crew, Nappi was involved in a scary ice climbing accident near Eklutna. 

I’m sorry, this post is long and tedious.  Last weekend’s events are in such contrast to the week prior that I’m struggling to put them into some sensible form of order.

I did very little last week.  I only left the house to ski Hatcher Pass or early morning rum drinks at Kim’s house for the Champions League games.  Two days of sleeping in a tent while exploring crust and sustrugi in Valdez the weekend before sapped my motivation, so I just kind of lounged around.  When Max offered the chance to snowmachine to his cabin on Chelatna Lake I jumped at the opportunity to take a break from the Chugach and explore the snow elsewhere.

As I had to teach CPR Friday morning, and Max had to work, we got a latter start then we had planned.  When we arrived in the parking lot, I broke the recoil spring housing on my starter.  Luckily my starter was fixed by borrowing a washer from elsewhere on the sled. We left with the sun shinning, but from lower in the sky then we had hoped.

 The trail to Chelatna is about 50 miles.  It alternates between open powder fields and bumpy trails through thick trees.  It took us a little more then two and half hours, the entirety of which I spent pushing myself to go faster so Max and Mikey wouldn’t freeze waiting for me.

Mikey with the frozen head of a moose

Mikey with the frozen head of a moose

At about the halfway mark Mikey found the head of a moose half buried in the snow next to the trail.  The final 15 mile were completely untracked, getting face shots on the snowmachine in the dark while racing across frozen swamps buried beneath 6 feet of snow was a new experience.  Max and Mikey found the way, I simply followed their tracks after they’d disappeared into the dark.  The riding was quite fun, bouncing over drifts and skipping across creeks, but also completely disorienting.  I had no idea where I was, or which direction I was going, as I couldn’t see more then 2 feet on either side.  My headlight illuminated nothing but approaching drifts, each followed by a scary dark void.  I just followed the tracks in front of me, and hoped.  As we arrived, the lights from the Cabin were the first I’d seen that night, and I was relieved I hadn’t wrecked myself in an unseen hole back in dark.

We woke up early on Saturday, which gave us time to eat breakfast (despite eating a pork tenderloin feast before bed), shovel a few roofs, work on my snowmachine, and get fueled up before heading out for the day.  We quickly abandoned our original plans, after I got myself stuck 3 times in 10 minutes, turned around, and spent the rest of the morning in the hills and swamps directly behind the cabin, before returning home for lunch.  After some hot dogs and another quick fixing of my starter, we headed for a huge open bowl across the lake.  

Mikey and Max took a direct route, far above my skill level, so I followed Max’s dad, Bernie, on a mellower route, wrapping around the hill through sparsely treed meadows and then slowly climbing through light alders before finally reaching a huge wide bowl, which as we looked up, with both the right and left walls turning gently together while rising upwards too meet at a point, reminded me of the bow of a ship.  The middle of the bowl was filled with great sledding, the sides (pictured above) littered with great skiing.  Once there Mikey’s sled began having problems and with another feast on the menu we didn’t stay long.

Sunday was clear and calm, the wind disguised our tracks, but left the snow unscarred.  Mikey, adjusting from two weeks of working nights on the slope got us up at the crack of dawn (around 9 these days) and after a fueling up we headed back out.  We took the same route from the previous day, with a few variations.  The touring at high speed, through  idyllic forest scenes of long winding through swamps, scattered exclusively with stubby black spruce, and filled with 6 feet of new snow, light enough to feel bottomless, and still show hints of the terrain (beaver dams, small creeks, erratic glacial boulders) it concealed, all standing before flawless views of the Alaska range brought giant smiles to our faces.  Once we reached the bowl Max and Mikey cruised around for a while, I lounged around, soaked in the sun and tried to capture some of their antics on camera.  On the filming mission I failed, as the camera was having all sorts of focusing issues, of which I’m entirely to blame, hopefully something can be salvaged and will be up here in a few days.  After a trip back to the cabin we headed home. I followed Bernie on the return trip, Max and Mikey left a half hour later as Mikey had to change the jets on his sled.  The trail home had this strange return to civilization feel, which I recognized from sunday evenings in the car coming home from a weekend away, but was transported to a snowmobile ride.  Starting out through open swamps, the number of tracks slowly increasing the further we went; and finishing on bumpy trails, passing and being passed by countless people.  

I really can’t wait to get back and do some skiing in this area.  We should have some video up soon.  Thanks for reading,  so until next time…

Hunter, Max and I went up Silvertip again today; the three of us had all sorts of problems.   First our POV camera mysteriously quit working while we were driving, and then while skiing both dogs decided to cause problems.  I’m told Hunter had to hike back up to Walter and literally toss him down the hill when he refused to continue.  I missed the incident because  Sue, while following me down a chute, decided to turn around and start climbing again.  I took my time trying to convince her to turn around before she disappeared into the trees.  She turned up 15 minutes later once she’d found a path down that suited her.  We regrouped with the dogs at the bottom, drank a beer, and decided to call it a day.  Somewhere along the ski back to the car I broke the pivot screw on my boots.  With a chance of sunshine tomorrow, and the snow feeling better by the day, a broken pair of boots is a major annoyance.  I’m told this is a common problem with Megarides, but unfortunately REI’s return policy is dependent on the mood of whoever is behind the counter.  Because I was forced to deal with an obsequious middle aged man, my demands for a new pair of boots were not met.  I was told that their warranty policy was different then the customer satisfaction policy, yet my complaints that I was no longer satisfied with my broken boots got me nowhere.  So I’ve been forced to order a new part and wait for it’s delivery.  In the meantime they’ve been fixed with an identical piece taken from an old pair of boots, which is nice, because the skiing should be interesting the next few days, and Seany B just bought a ’99 700 RMK.  I can’t really imagine him on a snowmachine yet, but I guess I’ll see it tomorrow.

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